How to clean K20 Idle Air Control Valve ( IACV )

                  I am making this post because... When i first started up my brothers K swap I was first excited that it was running well,, but after a min of smooth idle it would begin to surge. Which as most Honda owners know its most likely a Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS ) issue or a IACV issue. So after checking my voltage and correctly setting the TPS the motor would still surge once it was warmed up, (bummer)I did some research online and came to the conclusion that the IACV needed to be cleaned. all the articles said just take it off the throttle body and spray some carb cleaner in it and bam it should be fixed. Seems easy enough, bought some carb cleaner took off the throttle body and took the IACV off , sprayed the carb cleaner some black stuff came out. Put the IACV back on the throttle body, put the throttle body back on the car, started it and same issue once it was warmed up, surge surge surge. i knew there was something i was missing so i took it back off and just figured it out for myself. Below are my results, step by step on how to completely clean your IACV so it works good as new. feast on the fruits of my labor.


So Step 1.

 Is obviously take the throttle body off the intake manifold. you do this by taking a off  your intake, take off the throttle cable, remove the two small water lines that go to the IACV, disconnect the tps, disconnect the map sensor, disconnect the IACV plug, and there are 4 12mm bolts that hold the throttle body to the intake manifold. you should be left with this

 As you can see the IACV is on the bottom of the throttle body.

Step 2.

Get a Phillips screw driver and remove the two Phillips screws hold the IACV to the throttle body, make sure you press firmly on the screw driver as to not strip the screws out. Stripping the screws out isn't a life ender, but it would just be easier if you didn't strip them out.

Step 3. 

Pull the IACV off, it should come off with ease. Mind the rubber gasket and the two screws. i put the int he throttle body and set it aside so I don't lose any of them.

Step 4. 

You will now need to  disassemble the IACV, this is the most tricky part. You notice that the IACV sensor has two "star" screws holding it together, they aren't any Allen wrench sizes, and they aren't torx bit sizes. Im sure somewhere someone know hat tool to you to take the screws out, but i just use a grinder with a cut off wheel and just make a small slit in the head of the bolt to make it a "flat head" screw now.

Step 5.

Take a fairly large flat head screw driver and apply direct pressure and turn counter clock wise to loosen the two screws. I realize that in the pics it is hard to see the slits i created in the screw heads.

Step 6.

Now the IACV should come apart and you will notice that there might be rust, or other gunk in both pieces, this is where you will spray the carb cleaner into both parts to clean it all out.

Step 7. 

In the last picture from step 6 you see my left index finger is pointing to a small silver cylinder that has a small tab on it and a shaft the goes through a bearing. you must be able to freely spin this with your fingers this means that the IACV is going to be fully functioning. If yours is like mine and after spraying carb cleaner into it, it still doesn't spin. then you are going to have to use some WD-40 or other lubricant to free the shaft and allow it to spin freely. this is very important, The way the IACV works is is by sensing how hot the engine is and it does this by reading the coolant temp as it goes through the IACV. once warm enough it will allow the shaft to spin around blocking a small hole that allows the car to have a steady low idle, much like a choke. if this shaft cant freely spin then it can't properly block the small hole allowing air in, thus acting like a vacuum leak causing a surging idle.

Step 8.

 Now that your IACV is freely spinning with ease. ( note this might take some time, a lot of finger spinning, and WD-40 to continue to flush it out) if you don't take the time to make sure it is freely spinning then when you put it all back together its probably still going to surge. now re assemble to IACV using the two screws you made slits in.

Step 9. 

Re attach the IACV to the throttle body using the two Phillips screws and rubber gasket that you stashed in the throttle body for safe keeping. if you forget the rubber gasket then the coolant is going to leak into your throttle body.

Step 10. YOU'RE DONE!!!!!!! now just re install the throttle body and attach all sensors, hoses, throttle cable, and air intake. ( mine is missing a few sensor and im not going to be re installing it onto my motor, as the motor is currently not in the car and i need new gaskets) but this should help you get your car to stop surging. 

Finished

           Upon returning from our trip across country to pick up my sick new toy. I knew I really needed to finish my cage completely, this basically was just getting bobby to get me some 16g steel plate for the a pillar dimple dies, paint the cage, interior back in, dash cut to fit, glue in the window I failed to break upon removal, and some wiring. It seems like a lot but in reality it was very easy stuff to do, but with the weather heating up and I was also moving.  So it's been pretty easy to just blow off working on the 240, but at the same time I was very excited to get it all running and drive it. So yesterday I finished it, changed the oil and almost took it to the car wash, but ever needed to pick up a gas tank for his 14 so he can finally get that thing running. So tomorrow Sunday June 1st I will officially complete the 240sx cage project, with a simple wash it will mark the completion of my project.

Had ever snap a few just to show what it looks like ( which according to Ian is the same as before) but anyway I'll take some better ones after I get it washed tomorrow 

Lexus LS CAB

i think the idea of this is actually cool. i dont know the story behind it but its cool that it only took him seven minutes to make his LS different from everyone else, and not to mention that he will for ever be famous as the guy that cut the roof off his LEXUS. pretty neat stuff, some people might argue that its dumb but what ever its his car he can do what he wants.

BASIC DRIFT CAR SETUP 101

                  As most of you know i have recently finished up the build of my RB swapped drift missile car. this is my first drift car build of my own, i have helped many Friends build their drift cars and i have been around drifting for a while now. but this is the first time i am going to be drifting my own car. So two weeks ago i went out for my first drift sesh ever. i took the car our to U-DRIFT with some friends and had a blast. i think i did pretty well for my first time i only had 4 tires so my day was over pretty quick. but i learned a lot in that time, and i also learned that i have a lot to learn. here are two videos of me.




yes i did forget to torque the wheels after i changed them but i did remember before i went out.

I am well aware that my car is no where near set up properly for drifting. but with only limited funds im trying to figure out what the best choices in mods are that i need to make first.

here is my sub par setup

Tein coilovers that are 5 years old, blown out in every corner, cut springs to make the go lower from previous owner. but they were free and im glad that i was able to get them.
stock links
stock steering
stock knuckles
no front sway bar (because the rb oil pan hits)
stock rear sway bar
welded diff
stock seat
stock seat belt
stock steering wheel
no strut bars

so needless to say i have been searching through the mess of miss leading, incorrect, biased, stupid information found all over the interweb and various forums. today however i was able to come across some great articles on MOTOIQ.COM, written by Mike Kojima who we all know is the brains behind Dais drift car. these articles have helped me to see what is the most important things i can buy and what things i can do without or not do without. I wanted to post this because i know there are many other people out there trying to answer the same questions i have. i also know that these articles are a few months old, but i also know that not everyone is an Internet whore.

CLICK HERE FOR PART ONE OF BASIC DRIFT CAR SETUP

CLICK HERE FOR PART TWO OF BASIC DRIFT CAR SETUP



Hope this helps out some people.

DIY 5 lug video

stumbled across this video today. since i have 4 lug and im looking to do 5 lug, i thought i would share this video. it takes all the guess work and stupid internet forum rumors out of the question. and just shows you step by step. SUPER basic and super easy, and super informative. since we love DIY i just wanted to share it.

build your own body kit

NOT REALLY DIGGIN THE STYLE OF THIS CUSTOM BODY KIT.... BUUUTTTT  this is a good idea especially if you drift and smash up your body kit all the time instead of buying a new one each time, just make your own and keep the mold so you can keep making it all the time......

Custom Body Kits Creating your own unique body kit will set your car apart from anything else on the road.  Best of all, you can choose to be as extreme or mild with your design as you choose!   Creating and Installation of Custom Kit Step 1 - Draw out a good schematic of what you would like from your bodykit.  If you are more experienced you could even do a nice Photoshop or graphics job!   Step 2 - After you have achieved your desired design.  Simply purchase a large block of foam as the one pictured below.  Simply place the block against your vehicle and cut out the desired shape.  We used an 80 grit sandpaper to shape the majority of the areas of foam. Step 3 - Use your imagination and try to create a design that will flow with the general lines of your vehicle.  Also be sure to have both sides equivalent to each other by checking them over frequently. Step 4 - The design is finished!  We simply used two other pieces of foam underneath to hold the template in place. Step 5 - The next step will be to apply the fiberglass on top of the foam.  Before covering the foam, use "water based" contact glue and aluminum foil to cover the foam.  This will prevent the fiberglass from destroying your design.  The contact glue is used to stick the aluminum foil onto the foam.  Then you may apply the fiberglass and resin to your design without any worries.  You will need at least 3 coats of fiberglass.  Once it has all dried, apply putty onto the entire shape to solidify the design. Step 6 - Finally before you attempt to paint the pieces you will need to finely sand the entire piece to a smooth finish.  Start out using 400 grit sandpaper and work your way to a 1000 grit wet sanding paper.  If you find any holes or scratches you may also choose to fill these in with a fine scratch filling putty. Step 7 - Now you will have to wait until each piece is completely dry.  When it is you may apply your primer.  We suggest using a good base/clear coat to give your pieces a factory like finish.  If you are not an experienced painter you may choose to have the pieces painted by a professional at a local body shop.  In most cases they can install the pieces for you as well. And Voila!