PLEASE CLICK HERE AND SEE ALL THE PICTURES!!! THERE IS TONS.>>>FLICKR<<<
Showing posts with label partsshopmax. Show all posts
Showing posts with label partsshopmax. Show all posts
Sunday
VEGASDRIFT Practice 5/4/2014
OK short and sweet. its 11:30 pm im leaving on my trip across america in 5 hours im super tired but i wanted to get these pictures posted, since by the time i get back in 2 weeks they will be old news. I shot a ton of pics there is about 250 total on my Flickr which i will link you too at the end of this post. some of the pictures are cool, some aren't apparently i got some debris in my camera that i didn't notice until i had it on a large computer screen, so deal with it. the pics are free you can do what ever you want with them. i only ask that you shoot my a shout out, link my blog, or something to give me some views. Im tired here are the pics if you didn't get in im sorry most likely it was out of focus, i did try to shoot everyone's car.
PLEASE CLICK HERE AND SEE ALL THE PICTURES!!! THERE IS TONS.>>>FLICKR<<<
PLEASE CLICK HERE AND SEE ALL THE PICTURES!!! THERE IS TONS.>>>FLICKR<<<
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Tuesday
Some updates on Ever's car
This is what his car looks like now. it's on the ground. engine is in, roll cage done, just needs to get wired up. these pictures aren't the best i just wanted to get some updates on the blog since i have been slacking on posting lately.
Friday
RB25sx updates
Here are some long awaited updates on my car, i know i took a few month hiatus from blogging but im now back with a vengeance. Just because there were no updates doesn't mean i wasn't working on my car, i was actually quite busy. since ever had crashed his s13 and decided to go 14 i was able to get his stuff that he couldn't use on the 14 build. Thanks a MILLION bud. So here is what i have done.
Evers old subframe with max solid bushing and tanabe sway bar
Evers rear over fenders
Evers front PSM knuckles
I also got ambitious and decided to extend my lower control arms. the last event i was having real bad outer shoulder wear so i thought that maybe if i extended my lower control arms i would get more camber so at full lock i would have a better contact patch.But when i extended my lower arms i opened a whole new can of worms, since instantly my greater camber was causing serious rubbing issues on my fender wiring harnesses so i had to take the whole dash out and reroute the fuse boxes into the car. This is actually easy and can be done with out cutting any part of the harness, you can do it with radiator and engine still in the car. start on the passenger side by where the ecu is mounted, and remove the three white plugs that are connected to the harness that comes from the passenger wheel well.you will need to unbolt you ecu and move it to access these plugs, then go outside by the passenger wheel and pull the harness out from inside the car. Then start disconnecting the main fuse box wires, then start pulling that box out and follow the wires removing the headlights, turn signals, light motors, and horn wires if you have them. then unbolt the radiator brackets and pull the radiator back a little and pull the wiring from off of the upper core support. then you get to the drivers side fuse box, you shouldn't have much of anything actually plugged in there. then stop there and go to inside the drivers side of the car and get a 10 mm and unbolt the fuse panel and resistors that are bolted in. then disconnect all the wires attached to you steering column then pull those all out so they just sit on the drivers floor. mind you the dash must be out. then this is the hardest parts cause you need to move around a lot of thick harnesses and you should see the light in the hole in the fender where the harness comes through then have some one go on the outside by the drivers wheel well and pull lightly while you feed it from the inside and it will all fit right through the hole in your fender with out any modifications just be aware that there is some sound deadening that you need to break away to enlarge the hole and the harness will come right out with no cutting. then the rest is obvious just reconnect and you have to extend you headlights, turn signals and brake master cylinder wires since obviously all the plugs are now in the car. you will also need to extend you lower harness and some other wires and from the harness. but just take it slow and do one group of wires at a time. sorry if thats all a little jumbled or miss punctuated.
the other thing i did not realize was i would have to get longer tie rods since i extended the lower arms 35mm so i had to order the max inner tie rods since they are 20mm longer then stock s14 ones.
Tie rod looks a little bent but its only cause of the wide angle lens.
You can see the lack of fuse boxes.
and one more of the garage and evers build.
Evers old subframe with max solid bushing and tanabe sway bar
Evers rear over fenders
Evers front PSM knuckles
I also got ambitious and decided to extend my lower control arms. the last event i was having real bad outer shoulder wear so i thought that maybe if i extended my lower control arms i would get more camber so at full lock i would have a better contact patch.But when i extended my lower arms i opened a whole new can of worms, since instantly my greater camber was causing serious rubbing issues on my fender wiring harnesses so i had to take the whole dash out and reroute the fuse boxes into the car. This is actually easy and can be done with out cutting any part of the harness, you can do it with radiator and engine still in the car. start on the passenger side by where the ecu is mounted, and remove the three white plugs that are connected to the harness that comes from the passenger wheel well.you will need to unbolt you ecu and move it to access these plugs, then go outside by the passenger wheel and pull the harness out from inside the car. Then start disconnecting the main fuse box wires, then start pulling that box out and follow the wires removing the headlights, turn signals, light motors, and horn wires if you have them. then unbolt the radiator brackets and pull the radiator back a little and pull the wiring from off of the upper core support. then you get to the drivers side fuse box, you shouldn't have much of anything actually plugged in there. then stop there and go to inside the drivers side of the car and get a 10 mm and unbolt the fuse panel and resistors that are bolted in. then disconnect all the wires attached to you steering column then pull those all out so they just sit on the drivers floor. mind you the dash must be out. then this is the hardest parts cause you need to move around a lot of thick harnesses and you should see the light in the hole in the fender where the harness comes through then have some one go on the outside by the drivers wheel well and pull lightly while you feed it from the inside and it will all fit right through the hole in your fender with out any modifications just be aware that there is some sound deadening that you need to break away to enlarge the hole and the harness will come right out with no cutting. then the rest is obvious just reconnect and you have to extend you headlights, turn signals and brake master cylinder wires since obviously all the plugs are now in the car. you will also need to extend you lower harness and some other wires and from the harness. but just take it slow and do one group of wires at a time. sorry if thats all a little jumbled or miss punctuated.
the other thing i did not realize was i would have to get longer tie rods since i extended the lower arms 35mm so i had to order the max inner tie rods since they are 20mm longer then stock s14 ones.
Tie rod looks a little bent but its only cause of the wide angle lens.
Evers New Build
Well as most of you know, since your reading this so you must follow the blog or live in Vegas. Ever crashed his car during the practice or the last practice event. so he has recently started a new build for 2013, here is whats going on so far.
All new PSM front knuckles, FLCA's, Tie rods, and Eccentric steering rack bushings.
Fully stich welded engine bay. custom from power brace and gold spray paint. no need for tubs they are only for daily driven cars or people making there shit all bling bling.
Totally Gutted interior. Sound deadening removed, roll cage base plates and strut tower plates in place, drivers side stock seat mount removed to make the seat sit as low as possible,
All new PSM front knuckles, FLCA's, Tie rods, and Eccentric steering rack bushings.
Fully stich welded engine bay. custom from power brace and gold spray paint. no need for tubs they are only for daily driven cars or people making there shit all bling bling.
Totally Gutted interior. Sound deadening removed, roll cage base plates and strut tower plates in place, drivers side stock seat mount removed to make the seat sit as low as possible,
Rear sub frame with max solid subframe bushings, more gold paint and custom welded rear solid diff mounts.
if you didnt notice this build is a 14 not a 13 like he previously had. stay tuned for more.
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